Traditionally, the Stratocaster tone controls are for the neck pickup (First Tone, Middle Knob) and the middle pickup (Second Tone, Lowest Knob). However which tone control impacts which pickup(s) is very customizable. It's very common to have T1 for the neck and T2 for the bridge pickup - or - have T1 for the neck & middle and T2 for the bridge only. There are plenty of combinations so if you'd like something other than the traditional configuration, please leave a message at time of checkout or reply to your order confirmation shortly after receiving it.
It absolutely possible to get "50s Wiring" on a Stratocaster. Many people confuse "50s Wiring" for the use of cloth covered wire and that is not the case. "50s Wiring" is simply having the tone control affect the output of the volume instead of the input of the volume.
*** IMPORTANT *** In my experience, '50s Wiring and Treble Bleeds do not sound good together. They produce an artificially bright and unpleasant tone when rolling down the volume. If you have experience with it or want to try it, you're welcome to it - just know you've been warned.
If you'd like 50s Wiring instead of the traditional configuration, please leave a message at time of checkout or reply to your order confirmation shortly after receiving it.
All potentiometers that I use have a US Spec 3/8" threaded bushing. If your pickguard does not have properly sized mounting holes to accept these potentiometers you can easily enlarge them by drilling them out - or - if you do not have a power drill I'd recommend using a T-Handle Reamer or sometimes called a Tapered Reamer. These are inexpensive and all but idiot proof and available on Amazon or Harbor Freight for just $3.49 if you have one local to you.
Stratocaster Wiring Kits are built with either 18- or 24-Spline Split Shaft Potentiometers. Many import guitars use 18-Spline pots with press-fit knobs. For traditional Stratocaster knobs, the plastic is soft and the spline pattern for the knob is formed with initially press-fit onto the potentiometer. This means if your guitar originally had 18-Spline it will fit 18-Spline potentiometers best. They can still go on a 24-Spline pot and partially form to that pattern as well but they often no longer sit perpendicular to the shaft. The same applies to going from 24-Spline to 18-Spline.
I do not ship outside of the US any longer. Unfortunately, a bad run of lost packages and extremely delayed deliveries soured my experience with international shipping.
I do not stock reverse audio taper (left handed) potentiometers. Full clockwise will always be full volume or brightest tone. If that's okay with you, I'm happy to accommodate.
That's tough to say for certain. All of my wiring harnesses are made with "US Spec" components - imperial sizing and thread pitch. The spec's of each harnesses components are either listed or linked in the description. If you're still not sure please do not hesitate to ask.
That's another tough one to say for certain. Each of my wiring templates is CNC cut from a scan of the actual guitar. If it's a specific guitar - a Squier Toronado for example - I have an exact template for that layout and it will fit just fine (aside from mounting holes likely needing to be enlarged).
If it's for a custom build, kit, or off-brand guitar it's 50/50. I'm happy to share measurements to confirm and, if needed, make a custom template to match your guitar.